Chicago - The Windy City. Read about our (brief) time in the city - the food, the architecture, the music and the culture of this metropolis in the heart of America.
This border city is known for its blend of Mexican and Texan cultures - food, music and architecture. This is Tex-Mex at its best.
Memphis, baby... home of the King! Read about our travels through Graceland and encounters with real Memphis barbecue.
The city of angels... and home to Hollywood's brightest stars. Find out what we did in the heart of tinsel-town.
New Orleans - where great music and great food feed the soul. Travel with us to the French Quarter and down Canal Street as we explore this city at the mouth of the Mississippi.
Home of great coffee, fresh seafood, the Sci-Fi hall of fame and grunge music. Check out how we spent our time in the rainy northwest.
El Paso is a place where multiples cultures have passed through and left a print of their society. The first people to be in El Paso were the Native Americans who only passed through El
Paso heading to the west. Then in 1581 the Spanish claimed El Paso as theirs in name of Philip II. Nine years later, Juan de Oñate took possession of El Paso, he also changed the name of El Paso from El Paso del Norte, The Pass of the North, to its current name. We can see the mark that Spain left in El Paso because of the use of the Spanish as a second language and in most cases as a first. We can plainly see how the U.S. had been in El Paso: since 1845, when Texas joined The Union; businesses began to be written in English since the people that worked there primarily spoke English. Finally in 1846, when the Mexican-U.S. war came to a close, the city was divided in half, one half, the north half, remain a part of the U.S. and kept its name, however the southern half became Mexico's where they changed the name of the city to Ciudad Juarez. This relation between both cities was a large contributing factor in the reasoning to build the Bridge of the Americas. All this history has shown how El Paso has received the culture that it currently has, and how it has become a two language city with mixed traditions where the people live life in Spanish, but do business in English. We could perceive the presence of two cultures because despite the fact that El Paso is in the U.S. everything was written in two languages: English and Spanish. However, most of the people spoke Spanish. We could see that El Paso, like New Orleans, was made up of different cultures only by looking at their restaurants. We can see the influence of the U.S. and Mexico on El Paso like we could see the influence of French immigrants and the influence of the U.S on New Orleans.
The places where we chose to eat reflected these different cultural influences of El Paso that are still present today. From mom-and-pop eateries and early morning coffee shops, to homemade market cuisine, the food represented this intersection of cultures. With such a large influence from Mexico, being that El Paso sits directly on the border between the United States and Mexico, most of the restaurants near where we stayed were strictly Hispanic in nature. Many of the ingredients used were locally grown, very specific to the area, and had been used in culinary process for as long as people in this area have been cooking.
This provided us with a very local experience far from anything else we had seen so far.
The food was incredibly dissimilar to both Memphis and Chicago not only in what is most commonly served or the types of restaurants that serve it, but also as deep down as their roots. The Chicagoan style pizza with Italian roots, and Memphis style barbeque were drastically different than the Mexican cuisine that we encountered in El Paso. On the opposite end of the spectrum, however, one particular coffee shop in which we spend a good deal of time had very little, if anything at all, to display specifically about the Hispanic culture in El Paso. In this city, in this mixing place between two distinct cultures, it surprised us to see such a unique coffee stop with little, if all, any influence from Mexico. This place, The Percolator, gave us a unique vantage point to see how the other side of culture lives here. It was a center for music, as well as one of the busiest places in the entire downtown area. This place gave us a good look at the distinctions between the United States and Mexican culture.
The geography of El Paso was also distinct from our experience in other cities so far. Because of its location in Texas, and being that everything is far more spread out than most everything else in the country, we expected there to be a large amount of walking, and moving. Something must be said, however, for the density with which everything was packed around the hostel where we stayed. Most everything that was necessary for a substantial, illuminating experience was well within a range for walking. The “best” Mexican food, necessary attractions like museums and walks, and places to relax were in close enough vicinity to be both feasible and practical. However, taking a stroll of no more than 5 blocks from our hostel and its place in a stereotypical American business district would put you in the very heart of Mexican culture. So greatly, in fact, that every aspect of that neighborhood is completely different than anything else we saw. Rollie Barnes was the only person to fully experience this, because while we were in the art museum he decided that he would go and get things to use in the making of dinner that evening. From what he found, the language shifts completely into Spanish, the style of business changes from traditional storefront buildings into a marketplace atmosphere, and everything is much less expensive.
Even with the rich cultural diversity of El Paso, it is by no means a tourist destination. This was distinctly recognizable from the fact that almost all of the businesses closed even before the sun set, and the “public transportation system” was almost completely nonexistent. This would prohibit us from seeing some of the places of interest located around the city, such as the large sand dunes, ancient missions, and famous sites, because of the lack of available tour companies. In addition, this caused some logistical issues with bringing such a large group to El Paso. When we arrived there, one of the first things that became apparent was that almost all of the businesses, and restaurants, closed very early. This made it difficult to find any place that could accommodate 14 people at dinner time. This was a completely opposite experience in every other city, which stayed open very late, and lived for large groups such as ours. However, after being “on-the-go” so intensely during the beginning of the trip, and not having very much time at all to ourselves or for recuperation before this, El Paso almost seemed like a “rest-stop” between cities. Everything in this part of the country is well spread out, so it seemed fitting that we would slow down here and take things in stride with how we felt. This is one of the primary reasons that El Paso was such a great experience for me, and for the others on this journey.
The people we met, too, in El Paso seemed very different than those that we met in Chicago and Memphis. No-one seemed to be in a rush to get where they were going, while in Chicago and Memphis people were pushing and shoving, honking their horns and getting really angry at each other. Our interactions with these people also showed this to us. At one point a man we were walking next to asked us how we were doing and what we thought of El Paso, this never even came close to happening on the street in either of the other cities. The nightlife while we were doing all of this also was completely different than either other place we visited. Both Chicago and Memphis had a booming nightlife with restaurants, clubs, and people everywhere; El Paso, however, did not have any of this. Most of their restaurants closed early, they did not have any “clubs” that I saw, and when we went out later in the evening, we did not see very many people around.
This did not mean that El Paso was lacking in attractions. The El Paso Museum of Art showed us many different time periods and styles of art centered in and around El Paso, but also those of other places. The modern art differed greatly from how it showed the life of the city, and life between Mexico and the United States, while the more ancient art painted a picture (no pun intended) more of landscapes and religion. This had greatly to do with interpretation of humanity, artistic equipment involved, as well as how cities and Texas itself has evolved over time. It was also surprising to see such famous works exhibited there. Being that El Paso seems so far out of the tourist zone, and out of the public eye it seemed unexpected that they would have such extensive Normal Rockwell and Andy Warhol pieces on display. The Norman Rockwell exhibit was especially extensive and must have had over 150 original pieces by him. Though this struck us as odd, it seemed strangely in tune with the persona of the city itself. The paintings characterized small, collective communities, whether they were families or client-patient works, and also a picture of the attitude of the world itself.
El Paso was a wonderful, culturally enriching experience that left many of us with a new-found appreciation of the city. We were able to gain knowledge of many different facets of the culture and way of life of the people who live there through restaurants that we ate at, the art we saw, and through comparison of El Paso to the other cities we visited. From food to art to any number of other things, El Paso gave us a unique perspective of the southwest of the United States, while also giving us an appreciation for a slower pace of life.
Sources:
http://www.elpasohistory.com/history.html
http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/hde01
http://www.desertusa.com/Cities/tx/tx_elpaso.html
http://www.superpages.com/cities/El+Paso-TX/history.html